Loctite Epoxy Heavy Duty Pro (Hardener 4 fl oz/Resin 4 fl oz), Total Contents 8 fl oz (236 ml).

Excellent product. I have a LG-HiMacs counter which is a Corian-type material. In it is a built-in double sink made of similar material. The sink is undermount and appeared to be glued to the nderside of the countertop, even with the sink opening of the counter (not recessed back like most undermount bath sinks, for example.The sink, after 10 years, started to separate from the counter and I needed a solution to glue it back up. The concern I had was that the sink has a hanging weight of over 40 lbs., not including a food disposal unit that adds at least 10 lbs. to that weight.I did a lot of research and decided that this Loctite Epoxy was the best solution.I received the epoxy/hardener kit and started my project. First I disconnected all plumbing and removed the disposal unit from one of the drains. I then pried the sink off of the counter which was much too easy; I guess the remaining glue was about to give way.Once the sink was removed I cleaned both the sink edge and the underside of the counter. Both appeared clean at the outset but did it anyway. I then roughed up both counter and sink glue points with a 150 grit sandpaper, wiped clean again with soapy water, rinsed with clean water and then everything was prepped.I should say I had to create aplatform of sorts under the sink that I could use to support the sink. This was simply a piece of plywood with 2 2x4's that were a bit longer than the bottom of the cabinet to the bottom of the sink one in place. I angled the 2x4 legs so the sink was lower while I applied the epoxy/hardener mixture then just brought them in closer together to raise the sink to the countertop.Warning, this stuff is messy and if it gets on you it will take days to pic off if you dont clean right away. I didnt have acetone like I thought i did so, it took me days.Once I applied the epoxy to the sink edge where it was to meet the counter, I raised the sink and adjust it to align perfectly with the sink hole opening. You have about 10 minutes to work the attached materials while the epoxy sets (from the time you mix the 2 compounds together) so plan this part out. It took me about 3 minutes after application of the epoxy to raise the sink and align it. I locked in the sink by wedging the 2x4 legs at the base of the cabinet below.24 hours later, i started my cleanup of the sink, sanding away the excess epoxy with 80, 120 and 150 grit sandpaper then doing a final sanding with 220 grit sandpaper. I then wiped everything with a ScotchBrite soapy pad. No epoxy residue and the seal was very tight.I then removed the platform i created below to hold the sink while it cured. This was the scary part. Everything held though and it seemed very solid. I attached the disposal and all the plumbing and was done.Everything came out perfect and it looks great! I am glad I purchased this specific epoxy and it was worth every penny. I am confident it ill hold the 50 lbs. (the sink and disposal weight) as well as anything I place in the sink.

I have used this product for years. I was really happy with the results, and it had a usable shelf life of several years. More recently, I purchased this product from Amazon because the local store no longer carried it. The product arrived with the RESIN much thicker than in the past, but I was able to use it for about a year until the RESIN got too thick to squeeze from the bottle and to mix with the HARDENER. The hardener has remained very usable but is now of no value.I do not know if this problem is unique to Amazon's stock or if it is a change by the manufacturer. I have used many different types of Loctite products at home and at work for 40 years and have always thought they made fantastic products. I may try buying from another vendor, or I may just have to switch to another brand.

Excellent product. I like having the bigger bottles. Currently I have used this product on a personal project and I am very happy with how it came out. If you own or owned a Chevy Colorado or GMC Canyon. You know that the center console arm rest lid is weak. The manufacturer once again designed something to fail. The dealer offers an updated replacement for $144., the salvage yard may have it for $75.-$100., or you can buy a metal repair kit on eBay for $24. In my opinion, the kit is ok but incomplete. If you only rivet it into place. The repair will not last. Originally I wanted to fiberglass the inside but couldn't because fiberglass resin does not adhere well to plastic.Took some fiberglass matting and cut it to size. I bought this stuff instead, mixed a batch, and spread it out. *Note: I wore strong latex gloves to protect my hands.* Pushed and fitted the fiberglass into place (making sure all parts were wet and in place). Then I waited for it to dry. The epoxy gets hot just like resin. If you try to mix additional coats too soon. The heat from the first coat will affect (speed up) the dry time of the second coat. Later I did another batch of epoxy, then another layer of fiberglass, and then one last coat of epoxy. I left it alone and the next day installed the lid. I am so very happy with how it came out. It is very strong. I included one photo. It is the first coat. Mine was a real mess. most of the original plastic was gone.

This is the most used tool in my garage. I have successfully used this Epoxy on wood, many types of plastic, metal, ceramic, brick, and glass with no problems at all. One word of caution: If you don't get the ratio quite right (should be 1:1) it might not harden all the way. Otherwise it sets within minutes and hardens after ~8 hours. Get some cheap flux brushes for application. The fumes are quite powerful, so I also recommend wearing a respirator.Another tip-- First thing I do is draw a sharpie mark on one of the caps and its corresponding bottle so I don't put the cap on the wrong bottle. If you do that, you'll never get it off.One other note on temperature: I used this to re-glue the magnet onto the back of my kitchen timer. It is stuck to the side of my refrigerator, above my gas stovetop and is exposed to some heat rising off the stove. I have noticed some yellowing of the area on the fridge around the magnet, maybe due to outgassing when the hardened epoxy is exposed to high heat. The epoxy is still holding the magnet like a champ but it did leave a slight mark on my fridge.