CircuitWorks CW2500 Epoxy Overcoat, Two Part, 7.4g Total

Took a few tries to get it fully cure. I finally figured out the sauce.1. Clean the area you are applying it to with 99% alcohol thoroughly, and let the alcohol evaporate.2. Clean the area you are going to mix the two parts with 99% alcohol thoroughly...and let it evaporate.3. Mix equal parts, and mix it well...maybe for about a good 45 seconds atleast...depending on how much you are mixing. I did mine is very small portions to test out. Im glad I did.4. Apply it right away to the area.5. Heat to 212 degrees-ish for 10 minutes...I used a Wagner Heat Gun. A hair dryer on the hottest setting might work at a very close range.6. Let it cool for about 20-30 minutes. It should be fully cured by then!

I needed to epoxy down some lifted capacitor pads on a PCB. I mixed it up one to one according to the directions on the package and for the time period required. The board's pad areas were scraped clean with fine sandpaper and cleaned with alcohol. The pads were applied on the epoxy and allowed to cure for 1 week. As soon as I touched the pad with the soldering iron set to 220 degrees, the epoxy immediately liquefied. It was only for a fraction of a second. Even when I dripped the solder on the pad without touch it with the iron, the epoxy liquefied. It reset itself when cooled, but made a difficult task even more so. I had high hopes for this.

This product is intended for repairing solder masks and not really for fixing lifted tracks or pads. However, I saw a video of someone using this product to repair lifted SMD pads. So when I needed to repair a couple of lifter SOIC8 pads, I gave this a shot. Cleaning the surfaces as best I could and curing for the specified amount of time, it worked really well. The trick for me was to clamp the pads down flat as they cured. The fixed pads stayed put, no melting of the epoxy even at the 380°C that I have my iron set to. If you think about it, this is intended to be solder mask, it should not melt at typical iron settings.

I used this epoxy to repair traces and solder pads on printed circuit board. When repairing it is exceptionally important to clean both the under side of the copper and the PCB board of all contaminates. I then place a small layer over the top of the trace to doubly insure the copper is held firmly in place. If the contaminates are not removed completely the bonding will be poor, it does not appear to be a problem with the product but the contaminates coming loose from either the board or the copper.

This stuff is the real deal, I found a youtube video by retrogamemodz on how to use this stuff and followed his instructions exactly as he did and it worked perfectly. I repaired 3 pads with zero issues. The big thing is curing it as recommended by retrogamemodz.

I had two IC pads that got fried and needed to glue two new ones onto my PC board. I followed all of the application rules, cleaning the surface, applying the glue, baking it at the exact temperature they note in their docs, let it set 48 hours (more than they say you have to). Applied my soldering iron to it, PUFF, the glue gave way INSTANTLY. Waste of money.

Worked well, plus it's green. Normal epoxy probably works just fine, but check the melting temps.

Best part: the heat resistance of the fully cured epoxy up to brief exposures to 600 degrees F. Be careful not to confuse F with C, though--the manufacturer uses both in the same paragraph. I haven't used this very much yet, but so far I'm very pleased with it for covering up re-work of circuit boards and accidental scratches that could potentially cause shorts.